There is plenty to enjoy here. Bibendum is not a place for lavish sauces and heavy-handed main courses. The menu emphasises fresh ingredients with dishes ranging from a simple portion of fresh crabmeat to something more inventive such as marinated and roasted sweet and sour quails with oriental salad. From the beginning, chef Simon Hopkinson and Sir Terence created a menu inspired by the great brassieres of Paris. Although Bibendum has classic no-nonsense French brassiere fare such as steak au poivre and roasted chicken, Hopkinson adds a bit of Britain to the menu .

Bibendum also has one of the better wine lists in London. With more than 700 selections, the emphasis is French, but plenty of interesting bottles from Italy, Australia, New Zealand, Chile, and Spain are also on the list. Even wines from Austria, England, Hungary, Russia, and Lebanon are available. This is not a restaurant where you have to buy expensive bottles of Champagne, claret or Burgundy to get a good glass of wine. If you have to have a bottle of super rare wine, plenty are available. Try magnums of Krug Private Cuv?e such as the '64 at ?499 or the '59 at ?459. Bottles of 1976 Corton Charlemagne from Domaine Bonneau du Martray, ?145, and 1978 Montrachet Domaine Laguiche, ?495, are drinking well. A wide range of Domainede la Roman?e Conti reds should keep Burgundy lovers happy, including a '64 Richebourg at ? 489 and '52 La T?che at ?575. Claret connoisseurs will not be disappointed with all the first, second and third growths available: the '61 Palmer is difficult to find and exciting at ?425 a bottle and the legendary '45 Haut Brion at ?975 is a great treat.