Step through the wide doorway of a Cuban cigar factory and you enter more than just a workplace—you step into a living tradition. The cracked marble beneath your feet carries the echoes of countless workers who have walked these halls, while the tropical heat follows you inside. The air is alive with sound: a call to an amigo, laughter from the rolling floor, and the golden voice of a lector reading news, novels, or the words of José Martí. Statues and photographs of Fidel Castro and Che Guevara watch from the walls, reminders that cigars are woven into the very fabric of Cuban identity.
Then it hits you—the intoxicating aroma of unlit tobacco. Earthy, pungent, irresistible. It pulls you toward the heart of the factory: the galera, the main rolling room. Dozens of torcedores (rollers) sit at wooden benches, each making cigars entirely by hand. The process is unrushed, artisanal, and little changed in hundreds of years.
Tradition Meets Modernisation
Havana is the birthplace of premium cigars, and its factories are unlike any others in the world. Unlike their counterparts in Nicaragua or the Dominican Republic, Cuban rollers craft the entire cigar themselves—binder, filler, and wrapper. No Lieberman machines or shortcuts; only the skilled hands of the torcedores.
Cuban factories also keep some unique traditions: rollers often use two binder leaves instead of one, and a lector still reads to the workers each day. Yet modern technology has found its way in—draw testing machines now ensure consistent quality, solving the tight-draw problems that plagued Cuban cigars in the 1990s.
Factories You Can Visit in Havana
Many visitors believe only the Partagás Factory is open, but three Havana factories currently welcome tourists:
Romeo y Julieta / H. Upmann Factory
Address: Belascoaín 852 entre Peñalver y Desagüe, Centro Habana
Once home to Romeo y Julieta, this factory is now the temporary headquarters of H. Upmann. After H. Upmann’s modern facility faltered against Havana’s humid climate, production moved here. The rolling gallery is one of the largest in the city, with 204 rollers working under tall windows. Brightly painted molds—yellow, blue, and natural wood—add colour to the hive of activity.
Here you can watch the making of H. Upmann, Montecristo, Romeo y Julieta, and even Cohiba. New creations like the H. Upmann Half Corona were first rolled here before debuting at the Habanos Festival. While the shop nearby is average, the tour itself is one of Havana’s most popular.
Partagás Factory (Francisco Pérez Germán)
Address: Calle Industria No. 520, Centro Habana
Founded in 1845, the Partagás Factory is Havana’s most famous. Its iconic red-and-white sign, shuttered windows, and balconies are instantly recognisable. Inside, the grand skylight and central courtyard feel timeless, though the creaky floors and crumbling steps show its age.
Workers in red shirts roll not just Partagás cigars but also Bolívar, La Gloria Cubana, Ramón Allones, and Quai d’Orsay. In the rolling hall, a lector reads aloud while veteran rollers inspect younger colleagues’ work for quality.
Renovations are planned, with production moving to the El Rey del Mundo factory during restoration. The Casa del Habano shop here, however, remains open and is considered one of the finest places to buy authentic Havanas.
La Corona Factory (Miguel Fernández Roig)
Address: Av. 20 de Mayo y Línea de Ferrocarril, Cerro
Close to Havana’s main baseball stadium sits La Corona, once a cigarette factory, now home to iconic Cuban brands. The architecture feels functional, almost Eastern Bloc in design, with an industrial elevator dominating the centre.
Here, skilled workers roll cigars for Cuaba, Hoyo de Monterrey, Punch, San Cristóbal de la Habana, Flor de Cano, and Por Larrañaga. The rolling gallery is busy and practical, with clever lighting over each bench. There’s even a tasting room where tasters begin their work early each morning, ensuring quality before cigars leave the factory.
While the nearby shop is unimpressive and prone to counterfeit sellers, the factory itself is well worth a visit.
Practical Tips for Visiting Cuban Cigar Factories
- Tour prices: Fixed by the government, typically around 10 CUC (about $11.50).
- Book in advance: Check with your hotel concierge, as factories sometimes close unexpectedly for renovations.
- Beware of street sellers: Outside every factory you’ll encounter offers of “cheap cigars.” They are almost always counterfeit. Only buy from official Casa del Habano shops.
- Respect the workers: Factories are working environments. Photography may be restricted, and visitors should remain discreet.
Beyond Havana: Pinar del Río
For those with time to travel beyond the capital, Pinar del Río—the heart of Cuba’s tobacco country—offers another unforgettable factory tour. Here you’ll see cigars rolled just steps away from where the legendary leaves are grown.
Why Visit a Cuban Cigar Factory?
A tour of a Cuban cigar factory is more than sightseeing—it’s stepping into the rhythm of Cuba itself. The voices, the history, the craftsmanship, and the unmistakable aroma of tobacco remind you why Havana remains the undisputed capital of cigars.
If you love cigars, standing in a galera in Havana is an experience like no other: it connects you directly to the people, culture, and legacy that make a true Havana cigar the finest smoke in the world.